👞 5-Point Wear Test (Day 1)
Before you sink time & dye into them, do this quick test:
- Fit Length & Width → Wear with your normal dress socks. Make sure your toes aren’t cramped in the front and your heel isn’t lifting out in back. (AEs in 3E will feel roomy compared to a D, but shouldn’t slop around.)
- Walk Around Indoors → 5–10 minutes on hard flooring. Listen/feel for squeaks (loose insole) or uneven clacking (heel wear).
- Arch & Ball Support → Stand still and rock onto the balls of your feet — check that the shank feels solid (no bend in the middle).
- Crease Check → Watch how the vamp creases when you step. Deep, harsh creasing could mean dried leather — fixable with conditioner.
- Balance & Comfort → Stand naturally and see if weight feels even across both feet. Uneven wear might mean heel replacement sooner, but that’s an easy fix.
If they pass those 5 points → green light to proceed.
🧰 Supplies List
Here’s what you’ll want (budget set, all available online or local cobbler shop):
- Cleaner/Degreaser: Fiebing’s Deglazer or acetone (strips old polish/finish)
- Black Leather Dye: Fiebing’s USMC Black (deepest black, good for dress shoes)
- Applicators: Wool daubers, cotton pads, or cut-up old T-shirts
- Horsehair Brush: For buffing and daily use
- Leather Conditioner: Lexol, Bick 4, or Saphir Renovateur (restores oils)
- Black Cream Polish: Saphir, Angelus, or Kiwi (fills, nourishes, evens color)
- Black Wax Polish (optional): For mirror shine on toes/heels
- Cloths: Old cotton T-shirts or microfiber for applying/removing polish
- Gloves & Newspaper: Dye is messy — protect hands/surfaces
🔟 10-Step Process (Clean → Dye → Condition → Finish)
- Remove Laces so you can access the tongue and eyelets.
- Clean Uppers with saddle soap or mild cleaner to strip dirt/polish buildup. Let dry.
- Deglaze → Apply Fiebing’s Deglazer (or acetone on a cloth). Leather will look dull/matte — that’s normal.
- Apply Black Dye (1st Coat) → Light, even strokes with a dauber. Don’t soak. Let it absorb.
- Buff & Inspect → After drying, buff with a cloth. Apply a 2nd coat where burgundy still peeks through.
- Repeat Dye (2–3 coats total) until fully black. Always let dry between coats.
- Neutralize & Buff → If dye instructions suggest, use neutralizer; otherwise buff until no dye rubs off on cloth.
- Condition → Apply Lexol/Bick 4 to rehydrate leather. Let sit ~15 minutes, then buff.
- Polish (Cream) → Work in black cream polish to even tone and fill creases. Buff with horsehair brush.
- Shine (Wax, optional) → Add black wax polish to toe/heel, buff to mirror finish if desired.
